Live from Dakar, Senegal, West Africa

3/18/04 through 3/28/04

Entry One

Dearly Beloved:

Those of you who have been promised a surprise for the last many months now -- well, this is it. As I write this I am in Dakar, Senegal in West Africa. This trip has been in the planning for months. The photo that I hope makes it to you as an attachment is of me with my love and long-time African Queen, Bintou Ndiaye. As the Don sez, I had an offer that I could not refuse to join with Bintou in Dakar.

The few who knew about this trip not surprisingly thought I was out of my mind, but as my beautiful Bintou sits here beside me as I write this I can tell you after my third day in this indescribable city that this is the single smartest thing I have done in my life. I met Bintou through the highways of my great interest in West Africa, and my longest kept secret is now out. Bintou is MORE than the best of my dreams about her. Folks, you will be hearing about and from Bintou for a long, long time to come. She is from Sierra Leone and lost loved ones in a horror of a civil war in her country. The UN helped relocate her to this French-influenced, cosmopolitan city. Bintou is only two inches shorter than I am, is as you can see for yourself of a beauty to rival the great Somali model, Iman, and is so much like me in minor ways that it is scary. She is even grouchy when she gets tired or hungry -- just like ME. What more could a white boy from Memphis ask for?

I am typing this on a totally whack French keyboard, so my typically long emails will have a blessed brevity.

Dakar -- words cannot begin to describe the sights, the sounds, the smells. Travelers much more experienced than I have said that West Africans are the most beautiful people in the world. Unless you cling to the most Aryan of notions one visit here will convince you of this. People, you have not SEEN colors until you see the incredible fabrics worn by the ultra-fashionable Dakarois women. The variety beggars the imagination. The Senegalese are unconditionally polite, even begging or selling wares, and have the most patient, sweet demeanor of any people on earth. Today I sunburned the doo-doo out of myself on Goree Island, the final African destination before slaves were sorted and shipped to the Americas. While waiting for the ferry back to the mainland in a throng of people, two girls got into a heated and protracted argument much to the amusement of everyone. In fact the longer it dragged on the more entertaining and dramatic the girls got, obviously enjoying the attention. I got my laugh of the day from the crowd by saying "a-ha, just like Jerry Springer," who is savored with great relish in Dakar. There is even a French version of Springer with a guy whose expressions are dead-on for Jerry himself. Later when I asked Bintou what the fussing was all about and what the girls were saying she patiently explained that one of the girls was gossiping about the too sexy outfit of the other and was overheard. The thrust of the heated words was, according to Bintou, “they were insulting each other’s mothers.” It’s a small world, eh, Memphians?

Traffic here -- it is a gigantic game of chicken with most everyone having a sixth sense for who will give at the last second. A very powerful image I will never forget was during the Friday midday prayers for Muslims when virtually everyone on the streets prays in unison. It is a testament to the belief systems here. Loudspeakers throughout the city blare Muslim prayers even in the middle of the night. I found myself several times dozing soundly only to be wakened by the “ma-aaah-aaah-yee-aah-laa-sahm” chanting at high volume. At three o’clock in the morning.

Bintou's friends are also wonderful and accommodating people. I consider myself family with each one of them, and when I return I can only hope that the rude boy himself -- me of course -- has not managed to offend these sweet, gentle people with my brash American impatience and our impossible-to-get-rid-of-arrogance. We ain't the world people.

One last thing today. The strange feeling I have had for a great many years that somehow I was connected in some deep, mystical way to Africa has been borne out. This is the most foreign place I have ever been, but it feels as natural and comfortable to me as my own back yard. Bintou -- well, I am at a loss for words about how life-changing she has been for me. Upon meeting with the welcoming committee at the airport, I have never felt more WITH someone, as though we have been together forever. I know I gush. But look at her photo -- wouldn't you gush too?

More later as I can manage. Love to all. And SURPRISE.

A Message from Bintou

Dear Friends of Tom:

How're you all doing out there? I am very glad to tell you that my loved one Tom is such a great lover. He told me a lot about all of you people and I can't wait to meet you. I wanted to go crazy when I waited for him so long at the airport. My family and friends that were there with me are worried too. You wouldn’t know how I feel when I saw him coming out of the airport. Tom is all I think of him. He is the love of my heart.

I wouldn’t say much now. All I wanted you people to do for me is to take care of my Tom when he comes back to Memphis. He is going to tell you the latest news about Africa.

Yours, Bintou